Exploring the Cuban local life in San Luis
Cuba is a beautiful carribean island known for its beaches, music and fascinating cities. First of all its Capital Havana. But surely not for a tiny country village called San Luis.
Going there felt like a proper blast from the past, and you will easily understand why
How I ended up in San Luis
San Luis is a tiny rural village all about agriculture and stock raising. And in particular the production of tobacco.
It is located in the south-western side of the island. In the municipality of Pinar del Rio. At the opposite side of the nice tourist spot of Vinales, where my little adventure there started.
When I was visiting Vinales I was staying in a Casa Particulares. The Cuban version of an Air bnb, and probably the most common type of accommodation there in those days. I was staying with a nice lady called Maritza, and during my last night there she got visited by a couple of friends called Luis and Margot. We didn’t talk much that same night. But the following day we were all going to take the bus to Pinar. Starting point of their journey back home, and mine back to Havana.
During that bus trip we started talking about their village, San Luis. And they both told me they would have loved to show me it, and invited to go with them.
I was only going to spend a few days in Cuba, and really didn’t want to miss out the other nice spots. But they were really lovely. And I also couldn’t imagine a more unique experience.
So I jumped on the bus to San Luis with them!
Exploring San Luis
Visiting San Luis countryside has been a bit like jumping back in time.
It is a very rural area, with houses scattered between the fields. No paved roads and no cars. In most places not even running water. Only the people, their gardens and, for the luckiest ones, cows and horses. The only main attraction seemed to be the seashore down south.
Even if it turned out being nothing like a tropical paradise beach I was expecting
It was a place with apparently not much to do and see. But that left me some important thoughts and life lessons
During the days I spent there I’ve met many nice people, all more than surprised of seeing me there.
Most of them had never left the village in all their life, not even for visiting other parts of Cuba. And all they asked me was to hear some stories from my country and the rest of the world. And to tell the world a little bit about them.
I loved listening to their stories of the simple life. And even more how having someone listening to them was making them feel. Sometimes it takes very little to make people happy. And there is always something to learn from everyone
Living with Margot and Luis
Their home wasn’t even in the small town itself. But in a country area pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Or better, in the middle of farmlands and cultivated fields. So we stopped in San Luis for some food shopping of rice and chicken.
And then took the horse carriage home.
Just that already worth the trip!
Unfortunately only after a couple of days with them I understood they probably spent all their money on that chicken. Luis was very proud of cooking pollo it for its special guest. But I didn’t get the size of the financial effort at that time.
Many tourists are usually afraid to be scammed or seen as a wallet. Of course naughty people are everywhere. But most of the time I’ve lucky enough to meet people do really make their best effort to give you the best they can. Even knowing that you don’t actually need it.
So after the slow carriage trip, we finally reached their tiny humble home, as they used to describe it. We went straight to visit their friends living next door, which gave us some freshly collected milk. And then Luis offered me to go for a trip with his bike before the dinner.
Trouble is my second name
On the way to San Luis, they talked me about a beach, not far from their house. He said to don’t go there on that day because it was getting late, and it was a bit to far.
I already knew too well how for Cuban people everything always seems to be too far. Especially when it is about walking or doing other physical activities.
So I checked on the map, and judged the 6 kilometres a very easy ride.
Unfortunately what the map didn’t say was how bad and muddy was the road. How many hazards it was hiding. Luckily, at not even half way to the sea, I met two young couples riding their motorbikes back to town. I asked them if I was on the right way, and how far was the sea. And all they told me was to don’t even try to keep going, as the mud was getting always worse. The mosquitoes would have started eating me soon. And lastly, that lonely road was often visited by criminals and drunk people. Borrachos in Spanish! So they finally convinced me to anxiously start my way back, before continuing their way home.
Only a few minutes later I got really surprised (and relieved) of seeing them coming back to me, They say the wanted to accompanying me home safely. So we rode all the way together, and also invited me to their house. Where we planned a trip to the beach for the next day.
Meanwhile, Luis was looking for me everywhere. I didn’t even think about the possibility to worry him, even if I probably should have.
Lesson learned? Hopefully.. until the next trouble at least!
Finally back home we had dinner all together. Before going to sleep inside the “Mosquitero!”. An anti-mosquito curtain hanged above the bed.
Little big spoiler. For those wandering why all those mud and mosquitoes.. that beach was not exactly a typical Carribean paradise. It was actually a proper marshland. But I would have discovered it only after the next couple of days..
The following day I went to my new friend’s house ready for the trip. But unfortunately they got an hitch.
The only alternative was to explore on my own. Obviously this time without going very far.
So I started walking around the earthy streets. Watching the farm workers and talking with everyone I met. Especially about Margot, Luis and their kindness. A man told me his wife was teaching at the local school. So I took a selfie with him and went there to show her the picture. And then walked all the way down to the “pool”. The only place in the area where the phone was working.
A true blast from the past
Hanging around San Luis was like being on a journey back in time:
horse-powered carriages instead of cars and busses. Wooden ploughs pulled by bulls instead of tractors. And everything done in the most traditional way.
Our house obviously had no running water. The shower was actually a big bucket with a scoop inside and the toilet was nothing like we could imagine today.
I don’t actually even know where the drinking water was coming from. I didn’t question anything because I didn’t want to be unkind with my hosts. But thinking back now, I feel blessed for not having been sick.
Even if I had not much more to do there, I decided to extend my stay for one more day, mainly because the couple asked me to do it.
Finally visiting the beach
Surprisingly, knowing I was really curious about going there, for my last day Luis got one of his friends to guide me on a trip to the beach. He was a very nice and simple guy, and we had the deepest chats along the ride. As getting closer to our destination the road was becoming always muddier, until turn into pure water. So the way was actually pretty though, and I was glad they made me go back the other day.
But also couldn’t wait to jump in the water for a nice and long swim!
Unluckily, the meeting point between the ocean and that marshy terrain turned out as nothing like the paradise I was expecting.
That place was really nothing like I have seen before:
A very desolated seashore full of apparently abandoned wooden stilt houses. Quite spooky I have to say.
Luckily, once the initial disappointment was gone, I started seeing the real uniqueness of that experience.
My guide explained to me they were used by the fishermen. As a place where (hopefully) cook a nice seafood dinner after a night of fishing. And taking some rest as well.
A friend of his was there, so we went to take a look inside. It was predictably even less equipped than Margot’s house. And neither water nor electricity. I somehow would have loved spending the night there though. But we obviously had no supplies. And more important, ways to contact Luis. But I was still glad I got the chance to see it all.
The next days was really time to go. Saying goodbye to Luis and Margot was a bit sad. Spending there three out of ten days in Cuba has been enriching, but more than enough. So I took my carriage back to the actual San Luis, town.
Last blast from the past before jumping back to reality. Or at least the Cuban version of it!
Bus to Pinar del Rio, now very familiar to me. And then a new very unique experience: an endless CAMION journey to Havana. Where my local friends where waiting for me.
Always ready for new Adventures! But I’ll never forget San Luis and its beautiful People!
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