Climbing the Aiguille Croux
The Aiguille Croux is a 3.250 metres high peak in the Veny Valley, underneath the Mont Blanc range area.
Its top is usually reachable in two days, through a steep hike, a few iron paths a and a last climbing multipitch. Stopping for the night at the Monzino mountain lodge
Getting to the start of the hike
The starting point of the first hiking bit is a big carpark located at the end of the road going through the Val Veny
Note that, to avoid having too much traffic, during the summer months the road could be closed between 9am and 4pm. They usually do it if the carpark is already full. In that case, you will have to leave the car at the start of the road and ride a bus up there.
Also, it is not possible to camp or park there overnight with a van
The the Val Veny is located at the very northern end of the Aosta Valley region. To get there you will have to drivevalong the highway to his end, reach the famous town of Courmayeur, and follow the road signs to the Valley from there.
All the way to a nice wooden cafè called Bar Promotton. Just past a big camping site called Hobo camping
Cheeky tip
In the little forest around the cafè there is a pic nic area with a few fresh mountain water fountains. So don’t miss the chance to get some for your hike!
The next spot where to get some water will be at the mountain lodge itself. You will notice some signs saying the water is not drinkable, but it is actually the same they
will put on the table at dinner time. Coming straight from the glaciers above!
Car safely parked, it is now time to start the hiking adventure!
Getting to the Monzino lodge
as said above, the first stop along the way is a Mountain lodge called Monzino. Where most adventurers stop overnight before leaving in early morning for the peak.
It is obviously possible to do it in just one day, if you are fast and trained enough. But be ready for a really challenging and long adventure!
A night at the lodge will cost about 60 euros, including dinner and breakfast. I know it seems expensive, but that’s about the average price for this kind of places.
If you haven’t been sleeping in a Rifugio before, jump to my post about them!
If you really want (or need) to save money on the accommodation, some options are also to just stay for the night but have no meals, spending about half the price. Or to sleep somewhere outside and, eventually, go to the lodge just to buy some food. Or even nothing at all!
From the carpark, the way to the Monzino will take you between 2 and 3 hours.
Also depending on how busy it is. After the first flat bit through the forest and a couple of bridges across the water streams coming from the melting glaciers, the path turns into a pretty steep hike on a rocky terrain. With some
fun iron paths to get through the more challenging bits.
So remember to bring your ferrata kit with you! Or at least make one with your climbing gear, if you need to save space and weight on your backpack.
Also remember to wear some good and supportive shoes. A pair of comfortable hiking boots or approach shoes will do the trick.
Either for the hike, the ferrata, and the easy climb to the top of the peak.
Alternative climbing ways
There are also a few multi pitch climbing ways, allowing you to skip some of the hiking part.
One is an easy 12 pitches long climb called Velociraptor. Starting from the bottom on the rocky face on the left side after the first ferrata bit.
The second climbing spot is the cliff right underneath the Lodge. Where they recently have opened a couple of not so easy ways. We tried the easier one, made of 6 pitches between 6a and 6b. But we finally decided to abseil down at around half way and go back to the classic path. Also because of the big backpacks and the general tiredness
Spending the night at the cottage
once reached the lodge, it is time to get a refreshing drink, pick your bed, and get ready for the evening and the long day ahead.
Possibly sharing stories and advice with the fellow mountaineers.
Dinner is served at 7pm, and you should be able to be in bed in about one hour, if willing to.
It will be typically made of a pasta course, a second meat-based dish and a desert. With some veggie options on request.
Remember than the generators and the lights will be on only during that time, roughly from 7 to 9 pm. So charge your devices then, if you need to. And also bring with you an headlamp.
I really wish you to have the best sleeping night, considering the lung adventure waiting for you. But if, for any reason, that won’t be the case, do not miss the chance to take a look at the beautiful stars outside! Milky way guaranteed on clear sky nights!
The buffet breakfast will be ready from 6 am. Featuring the classic tea, coffee, milk, bread and spreads.
And set you ready to leave straight after that.
Climbing to the top of the Aiguille Croux
the are several climbing ways to reach the top of the Aiguille Croix
The most famous is probably the hystorical Ottoz route, covering the south-eastern side With its recently rebolted 13 pitches with a maximum 6a+ grade.
We decided to go for the easier southern side. Home of the easiest climb, called Cheney. And the normal way.
Which actually turned out being anything but normal.
Both sharing a steep and stony approach and the last two pitches, along an easy slab wall.
We decided to go for the easier southern side. Home of the easiest climb, called Cheney. And the normal way.
Which actually turned out being anything but normal
The Climb to the top
As said above, the two ways share the last two pitches. And the abseiling. Entirely located along the normal way. We started from the Cheney, but then decided to follow the grassy ledge going left from the end of the first pitch. And continue on the Normale.
We decided to do so mainly to avoid the little crowd already on the Cheney, but it didn’t turned out as the best choice. As someone told us in the lodge the night before, the normal way is advisable and mainly used only for descending. As it is not that easier than the Cheney. But protected only with the abseiling bolts located about every 20 metres.
So we decided to climb up just with the rope between two of us, placing some friends and cords whenever possible. Like proper mountaineers! Just with two unnecessary 60 metres ropes on our shoulders, and a whole set of carabiners hanged to the belts.
Other than that, it was an overall interesting experience, as it thought me a different way of climbing. But I have to say I generally prefer even more difficult but properly bolted climbing ways.
As my experienced buddy always says, they are always way less dangerous than this kind of apparently easier stuff.
Once close to the top, when the wall become very steep, take the path climbing diagonally towards the right side to reach the start of the last two pitches. Shared also with the Ottoz way.
Abseiling down from the Aiguille Croux
the best way to descend from the top of the climb, is to abseil along the normal way. You can either use two ropes or a long one folded, as the bolts are always about 20 metres far from each other.
Just be careful with the often unstable stones along the way. Especially if someone is descending underneath you.
Once reached the starting snowfiled, it is possible to keep abseiling down along the cliff face located on the right side, and ending in an ice channel. Seeing the poor conditions of the ice, and following the advice of a guide we met along the way, we decided to skip that part. And to descend climbing down from the same way we went up in the morning.
Not many things bother me more than hiking or climbing down on a stony terrain. But it really looked like the safer choice in that moment
But the worse part was probably finally reach the Monzino, really willing to sleep and with the legs already destroyed. And realize we still had long hike (and ferrata) down to the car. Plus, in my case, a 4 hour drive!
Probably one of my longest and most tiring days ever. But very good memories!
Thank you for taking the time to read this post!
Feel free to leave a comment below or share it with your friends, if you liked it. I would really appreciate it : )
Now keep exloring one of the related posts here, or pick another site area!
I think this is a real great blog post.Really thank you! Really Cool.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, this is a fantastic blog.Really looking forward to read more. Awesome.