Rock Climbing in Finale Ligure
Finale Ligure is a town located along the Ligurian coast, in Nothern Italy. About 20 kilometres west of the city of Savona.
The beautiful beaches spread all along its coast and the nice towns around, already make it worth the visit for pretty much everyone.
But the real attraction is the amazing inland, making Finale known as Europe’s outdoor capital.
Getting to Finale Ligure
Finale Ligure is easily reachable driving. As it features an highway exit just at the west end of the town.
If you are coming from east and planning to head straight to the climbing spots without firstly visit the village, it could be more convenient to exit in Orco-Feglino. Or even in Spotorno. Especially during busier summer days, when you do really want to avoid the sea-side traffic.
If you have the time, enjoy a drive along the scenic via Aurelia!
The scenic road stretching along the coast pretty much across all the ligurian region. Featuring nice coastal villages and amazing sea views. And take the chance to stop for a swim in the best hidden spots along it!
The most enjoyable part is probably the one between Finale and the town of Noli. Where the road is literally carved out in the rocky cliff.
There is also an easily accessible train station right in the center of the town, and a few bus lines running along the coast between the main city of Savona and all the villages on the way.
From there, you can reach some of the climbing spots jumping on one of the small busses connecting Finale with the inland villages, like Orco and Feglino. But remember they don’t run very often.
And also most crags are not so close to the main road and the bus stops. So having your own vehicle will definitely make things easier.
But be ready to deal with the crazily tiny streets of the Italian countryside!
Looking for more tips about moving around? Take a look at my post here!
If coming from very far, the nearby Airport is Genova, about 70 kilometres east of Finale. Easily reachable with a couple of local trains for about 7 euros. You can book it online here
And last but not least, both Genova and Savona feature big naval ports. In case arriving by sea could sound like a good option.
Climbing spots around Finale Ligure
It is pretty much impossible to include all the climbing spots around Finale in a single post like this
All the area is packed with amazing limestone cliffs spread all over the place. From the most hidden locations to a few little ones almost in town. Like the nice Paretina (literally “little wall”) of Finalborgo village. Probably one of the easiest to reach without a car.
There are a total of about 4000 climbing routes and 200 sectors in the area. With difficulty levels ranging from beginners to pro climbers. Making it really suitable for everyone!
With some slightly differences depending on the place, level and conditions. But generally speaking its limestone rock is known for the many tiny holes and pretty good grip.
Multi Pitch Climbing in Finale Ligure
Finale is surely best known for the many beautiful single pitch falesias, among with even some pretty long ones.
But for those looking for a more intense experience, there are a few places where to enjoy some nice multi pitches adventures. From the short and easy double pitches in Rocce dell’Orera, especially useful for doing a bit of practice. To the longest and most historical routes of Rocca di Perti and the Bric Pianarella, locally known as the Paretone (litterally, “big wall”). Offering very diverse lenghts and levels.
And the very special one: the Traverse of Capo Noli, right above the sea
Something you really cannot find in many other places!
You can find more about all the longer climbing ways in the area on this website
Where and how to Find the best Climbing spots
Climbing Books
There are a couple of really good and detailed guidebooks ready to help you exploring Finale Ligure.
The probably most famous are Finale climbing and Finale 51. Both available in several languages other than Italian. They’re packed with details, drawings, maps, suggestions, pictures and road directions.
Just know that some of the described ways are slightly under graded in the latter, compared to the first one.
Climber’s favorite meeting places
Last but not least, you can find good advice from staff and local climbers. Together with a printed version of every possible guidebook. In one of the cafes and dining places typically frequented by outdoor adventure seekers.
The most best known among locals is probably the Bar La Scaletta, located along the main road, in Feglino.
Climbing Websites
You can also find many places on websites like the Crag and Climbook
Simply put in the name of the chosen area, if you already know were to go. Or pick one from their menu about Finale.
You will find the list of the pitches and some other details. Together with reviews and comments form other climbers.
When to go climbing in Finale Ligure
Such an huge variety of options and the mild Ligurian coast climate, make Finale the perfect climbing spots pretty much all year round. With south-facing rocky cliffs ready to warm you up even in the coldest winter days (Especially the ones right above the sea!). North facing ones saving you from the burning sun during the summer ones. And obviously everything else in between.
Even in the shadow climbing there during the warmest days is probably not the most pleasant activity.
I probably still would not suggest you to go climbing during the central hours of the day in the warmest times. I often do it and end up very disappointed by my performance.. and with an empty bag of chalk!
Luckily locals have a perfect Solution also for that: climbing in early morning west (or noth) facing walls. Going for a nap, swim, and lunch break by the sea. And then afternoon climbing on the east side!
The perfect Adventure holiday day. Especially if ended with a nice Italian dinner!
That said, the very best times to visit Finale are probably during the Spring, from late March to May. And even better October and November.
When the mild sea water temperature and the quietness of the beaches guarantee the best after climbing swimming conditions!
Where to stay in Finale Ligure
Be ready to book in advance and do not expect many cheap options, especially closer to the coast and during the busy summer months.
The options go from fancy (or less fancy) hotels, to rental homes, farm houses, camping, bed and breakfasts and also catered villas.
The most adventurous can even enjoy some wild camping or sleep in their vans close to the spots! Just be careful as it is not allowed everywhere.
Other outdoor activities around Finale Ligure
As said at the beginning of the post, does not only offer world-famous rock climbing spots. But a whole range of amazing outdoor activities:
Swimming in pristine waters
The coastline around finale offers many beautiful swimming spots. Especially those further to the town itself.
On one my favorite public beaches is the one right underneath cape San Donato, easily reachable driving along the main road toward east. It is quite wide and usually not too packed with people, especially compared to the one closer to town. It is easy to reach, the sea water is often pretty clear and there is also a shower and a water fountain.
But you can simply follow the same way and just stop whenever you fell like: from the most hidden spots between the cliffs to the popular pristine Malpasso and the Bay of Saraceni. And even a secret nude beach!
Mountain Biking
Leading there adventure seekers from all over the world. Probably even more than climbing itself!
I would say that its popularity has especially grown with the rise of the e-bikes. The area doesn’t have any sort of lift systems. And before them the only way to bring the (lazier) downhill bikers to the tops was driving them up with the specific vans. There are still many companies doing so. But with many people easily riding up, the car traffic hasn’t increased too much.
Climbing a via Ferrata
The Ferrata way of the Artists is protected climbing route located on the Ligurian Alps just above Finale. The whole loop takes between 3 to 4 hours, and also features a scenic tibetan bridge.
Just try to avoid it in the warmer months, as it will be totally in the sun.
Ferrata ways are a good option for those looking for a little change from pure rock climbing. Don’t have a reliable climbing buddy at hand, don’t like it, or simply have never done it before. And are looking for an easy approach to that
Other Rock Climbing destinations around Liguria
Finale Ligure is surely the biggest and best known climbing spots in the area, but surely it is not the only one! Many (nice or less nice) small crags are spread all around Liguria, from Ventimiglia to La Spezia, with its famous and secnic Muzzerone.
But the main competitor is surely the rapidly growing Albenga, a town located at about 20 kilometres west of Finale, and its beautiful Pennavaire valley. With a very different type of rock, but soo many amazing pitches as well!
So all you have to do is.. packing your gears and be ready to Have Fun!!
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