Multipitch climbing in Rocca Castello
Rocca castello is a famous climbing spot in the beautiful Val Maira. A mountain Valley located in the Italian province of Cuneo, in Piedmont.
It is attached to another rock, called Rocca Provenzale and the Torre Castello. Another good climbing spot located just a narrow fork away.
The view of the impressive rocks already worth the visit, as it creates a beautiful scenery slightly reminding the Dolomites. Even if so far from them!
But reaching their tops climbing along the amazing quartz walls is a really unmissable experience.
Getting to Rocca Castello
First of all, to get to Rocca Castello you will surely need a car. Exit the highway exit in Cuneo and then follow the signs to the Val Maira. Once entered the beautiful valley, keep follow the windy road going across it towards a nice village called Chiappera. A few kilometres after the town of Acceglio. Enjoying the view of Rocca Provenzale on the right side of the road.
From Chiappera, keep follow the road until a junction, right after a small bridge. Most of the signs here will point to the left side, were the Campo Base camping site is located. Take the road on the right, and follow it either until its end, in Grange Collet. Or just to a first little parking spot on the right side.
The little towns located along the way offer plenty of fresh mountain water fountains to fuel your climbing adventure! Remember to get some, as there won’t be other possibilities after that.
Approaching the Climbing routes
From any of the parking spots you will have to walk uphill to the Colle Greguri. Starting point of the climb.
The approach from the first car park will take about 1 hour, starting on a very steep terrain through the trees and then following the eastern face of the mountain all the way up. Look for the red and white marks along the way. At the only junction, take the left turn following the sign to the Colle.
Or simply look at where the rock is!
The hike from the other parking spot will be slightly shorter and avoid the steep start. But a good part of the driveway will be unpaved.
We personally went for the longer way, and I really enjoyed it! It is never too demanding, it offers very nice views and it is good for warming up before the climb! Especially after hours spent sitting in the car.
If you choose to climb Rocca Provenzale instead, the way will be way shorter
Climbing to the top of Rocca Castello
The mountain range offers a good variety of multi pitch routes with different levels and lenght. A very easy way for the beginners, called via Normale. And even a crag with 21 single pitches with difficulty ranging from 5 to 7b, called Falesia del Russet. With lengths between 25 and 30 metres.
Always good for warming up and getting comfortable with the rock!
There are many historical routes as well as some newer ones. Most of the classic routes have been better equipped with new steel bolts and hangers throughout the years. But for some you could still need to place some nuts and friends.
The rock is a beautiful quartz with a good grip and (mostly) nice handles.
The top of Rocca Castello is a small rocky area with a metallic cross and the usual summit book. Offering a nice 360 degrees view of the whole Val Maira. At an height of 2452 metres above the sea level.
Between Rocca Castello and Rocca Provenzale there are routes facing pretty much every direction. Making them doable either on the warmer sunny days (on the northern side) or on the slightly cooler ones on the southern.
But always between late spring and the beginning of the autumn
The climbing route “Solo per Bruna”
Among the many options we choose a route called solo per Bruna, one of the easiest ways to the top. It has a length of 202 metres divided in 6 pitches, between level 4 and 5C. It has been opened in 1994, and recently very well retooled.
The starting point of the route is on the eastern side of the rock, almost at the top of Collle Greguri.
It can be distinguished from the others only by the presence of a couple white cords hanged on the first two hooks. With a diagonal crack running on their right side.
Finding the right route can be a bit tricky, as pretty much none of them has the name written at the start.
The first pitch is probably the hardest, as it is a long and consistent vertical wall. With a comfortable stop at its top.
It is followed by a very short one climbing vertically for just the first few metres. And then it is basically a walkway along the ledge on the left side.
The third one starts going slightly to the right side. And then pretty much straight up to the top for all the last pitches. With no distinctive difficulties. Just some small stones not very well placed and an interesting exit going all around a rock, at the very top.
We went down from the channel on the left side. Close to the end of the nearby way “King Line”. Similar but slightly longer and more difficult.
Staying around the Rocca Castello
For us it was such a long day! We left Genova, my hometown, at 5am and got back at 10pm.
But there are a few possibilities to stay there overnight and take it way easier. Or even better get the chance to enjoy more of the many climbs in the area.
You could easily spend days there without getting bored!
The closer place is the Campo Base. Where it is possible to either sleep in your own tent, rent one of them or to stay in their accommodation.
You will also find guides and advice about the climbing in the area.
But you can also look for a place in town, stay in your van or even camp out at the top, for the braver ones.
Probably our plan for the next trip!
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